à la carte archives

Camino de Santiago

This category contains 66 posts

Famous Last Words

Shortly after writing my previous post (A Tourist Demands. A Pilgrim Appreciates), I resumed the Camino after taking a day´s rest at a hostal in Burgos.   I bought some warmer clothes, a fleece vest and a hooded top.  And I enjoyed a room of my own:  a double bed (rather than a bunk bed).  A … Continue reading

A Tourist Demands. A Pilgrim Appreciates.

This bit of wisdom (which I translated from the more melodic Spanish), was on a bulletin board in the convent in Arre, where I rested early on in my trip.  I’ve thought about it a lot since, as many of my fellow walkers are behaving as tourists.  In each town, there are usually a few options … Continue reading

The Perils of Not Listening

Walking along an earthen track towards St. Juan de Ortega, I noticed a large blonde man whose full backpack tilted severely to the left.  Thinking it might strain a muscle, I mentioned it to him as I approached. “Yes, you´re the second person who has told me this,” he said, smiling, as if our concern … Continue reading

Who is Setting the Pace?

I’ve asked myself this question many times since starting the Camino, actually, before I even began.  To plan the trip, I consulted a guidebook and Internet forums about how long it takes to complete.  Depending on whom you ask, the trek from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela can take anywhere from … Continue reading

Yesterday, Erased

When I arrived at the albergue in Najera this afternoon, the hospitalero (host) asked me where I had come from.  It took me a few seconds to remember that I had walked 16.5 kilometers from Navarrete, a small village in the wine making region La Rioja.  Even though each day I record my starting and … Continue reading

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