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Almost there…but who is counting?

Santiago is 790 kilometers from St. Jean Pied de Port (France), where I started the Camino.  Signs along the way proclaim the kilometers remaining.  When the numbers were in the high triple digits, I ignored them, unlike other Pilgrims who photographed some if not all of these markers.  Frankly, it was too depressing to contemplate … Continue reading

Oh, the Places You´ll Go!

There is a Jewish saying that goes something like this:  Every town needs two synagogues; there is the one that you go to, and the one you´d never set foot in.   At home, this dichotomy is at play in my mind when it comes to stores and restaurants.  Indeed, sometimes I define myself by the places I will … Continue reading

Yesterday, Erased

When I arrived at the albergue in Najera this afternoon, the hospitalero (host) asked me where I had come from.  It took me a few seconds to remember that I had walked 16.5 kilometers from Navarrete, a small village in the wine making region La Rioja.  Even though each day I record my starting and … Continue reading

Walk Like an Old Person to Arrive Like a Young Person

Such was the sage advice of Maribel, the bleach blonde squinty eyed proprietress of an albergue in Cizur Menor, on the outskirts of Pamplona, where I stayed a few nights ago.  As each pilgrim stumbled into her courtyard, hot and weary from the journey, she asked them if their feet hurt and showed them how … Continue reading

Cutting (out) the Cheese

I’m not the only one who over packed for the Camino; most of the others are also Americans who, determined to resolve every possible problem on their own, schlepped a lot of stuff.   One older fellow I walked with for a few kilometers confessed to pitching three guidebooks and a bag of food into the forest … Continue reading

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