I´m nearing the end of my walk; in less than two days, I´ll arrive at Finisterre (the end of the earth). In some ways, it is much like the beginning. Then, I started up a mountain in the midst of the Basque country, a region straddling France and Spain that, thanks to its remote location, … Continue reading
Santiago is 790 kilometers from St. Jean Pied de Port (France), where I started the Camino. Signs along the way proclaim the kilometers remaining. When the numbers were in the high triple digits, I ignored them, unlike other Pilgrims who photographed some if not all of these markers. Frankly, it was too depressing to contemplate … Continue reading
There is a Jewish saying that goes something like this: Every town needs two synagogues; there is the one that you go to, and the one you´d never set foot in. At home, this dichotomy is at play in my mind when it comes to stores and restaurants. Indeed, sometimes I define myself by the places I will … Continue reading
At one albergue in El Burgo Ranero, a village in the meseta, a hand-printed sign urged Pilgrims to shower before going to bed. Each albergue has its rules (no smoking, quiet hours, etc.) but this was a first. “Do people really need to be reminded?” I asked the volunteer hospitalera, a woman from Toronto. Who … Continue reading
The Camino is about walking. And food. Without food, there is no fuel for walking. Looking over my daily expenses, the overwhelming majority is food and drink. The price of a bed and a hot shower, by comparison, is relatively low. When I was walking with the Italian teenager, we agreed that trying to save … Continue reading
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